New designer Gucci – dark horse fashion. Alessandro Michele has formulated a new ideology of the brand. What is it?

Changes in fashion houses take place on different manners. There are many strategic maneuvers, thrilling rumors, disturbing discussions. A blitzkrieg happens when the place itself becomes vacant unexpectedly and takes its designer, not only does not appear in the list of applicants, but generally no one knows. That’s what happened to Gucci.

Do not have time to subside sighs over the rapid withdrawal of Frida Giannini, Gucci has worked in ten years, contrary to the forecasts in its place, one of the most enviable in the industry, won by Alessandro Michele. The name is a little-something told. A graduate of the Roman Academy of fashion and costume, he worked for twelve years at Gucci, the last three of them – right hand Giannini. It was believed that he is responsible for accessories. However, Gucci accessories have always been almost more important than clothes, and he began his career just like the accessory designer Fendi. Especially striking was his debut, clearly marked not just a stylistic revolution in Gucci, but turn away from traditional brand bets on accessories to fashion-ideology.

Giannini was the continuer of business Tom Ford. In their interpretation Gucci – Brand jetsetters, sleek, tanned, proudly bearing on their heels trained body. Their clothing was not a trace of irony, always the perfect poise and a celebration of glamor with a touch of the 1970s, the golden age of Gucci. What we have seen during the show’s debut collection Michele autumn-winter 2015/2016, it was shockingly opposite. Flat-chested teenage girls with pale faces and separated parted her hair, almost masculine baggy pants and shirts; silk dresses with asymmetric pleated ruffles, as if from my grandmother’s trunk; coats, overcoats and fur coats of the precious, simple belted belt like a dressing gown; Berets and blouses with jabot from the wardrobe of Parisian bohemia. Finally, an unheard-of audacity – flat shoes, sandals and ballet slippers lovely lace. All things looked deliberately sloppy and vintage. Like the designer wanted to erase from our memory the uncompromising polished image that nurtured his predecessors. “I want to propose a different way of talking about sexuality, and the word itself is hopelessly out of date. To be more correct to say “sensuality”, – he explained later.

It is in this sense – not pretentious image last May at the Cannes red carpet and thoroughbred Charlotte Casiraghi in a flowered dress of pleated silk, fluttering in the wind, like a child’s sundress and fashionista Sienna Miller in a multi-gray-pink, reminiscent of the post-war clothes and immersed in emerald -The green black beauty Lupita Nyong’o. Next to girls in all other Gucci unexpectedly too solemn and ornate. Red carpet has always been an essential component of the image of the brand and the fact that all these romantic and easy to handle things became hits Cannes, it was the signal for the birth of selfless love of the public to the new fashion designer.

So to show a cruise collection in New York, he has approached everyone’s favorite. It was a logical continuation of the previous one: the bourgeois costumes like those worn by the heroine Buñuel again lace and pleating, soft bows and ruffles lax. And a variety of prints. As Michele: “I hate it when the collection of only two or three pattern. It is better to let the woman choosing a coat or blouse hold boutique five hours. I prefer her to have a choice as to the toy store. “

Diversity in half with negligence and there is an ideology of the new creative director of Gucci, Alessandro Michele. After all, the designer openly says: “I love high fashion, but another part of me crazy street style. Diva past like Princess Irene Galitzine were able to feel the spirit of the time – I’m sure today they would drew inspiration from the street. “

Perhaps the litmus test was the success of another, no less significant ward Kering – Saint Laurent led by Eddie Slimane, which showed that we are tired of traditional luxury, from the serious things, deprived of self-irony and subtext.

We want to memories, and it is them, and offer both a designer – and Slimane, and Michele. “My mother worked as an assistant film producer and has an eccentric Roman fashionista in her time in the industry were all incredibly stylish. But their eccentricity really miss me today, and I have built the show around the idea of ​​individuality. I believe that the way you dress, directly affects how you feel, how you live. “

In general, our love for the new Gucci has been calculated correctly. Although women who will buy clothes Alessandro Michele, such arguments are deeply indifferent. Sure it is that they are doomed to fall in love with these things at first sight and wear them for a long time.

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